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Dam Guide
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Nooga
Member since Sep 2005
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re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
quote:

you know what i mean. i didnt mean ALL kids cant model.

BTW im about to model some clips to hold my RIMS tube to my brew stand. this will be the frist thing that i will have used my 3d printer for that is 100% my idea.


Yeah

Nice, post some pics when you are done. I’ve been aggravating some people on an auto forum posting free models on thingiverse for simple designs they are charging crazy prices to produce. It’s been funny to see the people selling the same product on Etsy increase.


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Fat Batman
LSU Fan
Gotham City, NJ
Member since Oct 2019
553 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
quote:

A lot of bad in there too though, never underestimate the horny weebs.


true. No doubt there are some bad models on there. I get what you are saying about modeling as a skill and I agree, but the learning curve is as steep as the as the breadth of project specs. For instance, one could learn to make a damn good model of a 7x2x10 tray in a matter of hours with Fusion 360 and calipers. Whereas developing the chops to model a print in place articulating widget that requires no supports would take a lot longer to acquire the skills for. So, if you are a hobbiest interested in model my advice would be to dive right in.


DJNOS1978
LSU Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Dec 2013
110 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
Well said!


ELLSSUU
LSU Fan
Member since Jan 2005
4801 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
Asking for a little help here. 3D printers are outside of my skill set BUT my son who is in Engineering and uses them often wants one for fun.

He asked for a Ender 3 Pro but I’m debating on getting the 5 Pro for a few hundred more based off of Amazon reviews. Which would you choose for yourself?
This post was edited on 9/27 at 9:02 pm


CarRamrod
USA Fan
Spurbury, VT
Member since Dec 2006
51920 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
I have the 5 pro. Imo it is better that the 3pro because the bed only moves in the z axis. All other parts are the same though. My took a ton of trouble shooting to get to where it prints well. My extruder spring was too strong and crimped the filament causing underextrusion, and my bed wasn't very flat. Putting a raspberry pi with octoprint and a bltouch is a must have IMO.

I do wish I went ahead and got the 5plus though.


ELLSSUU
LSU Fan
Member since Jan 2005
4801 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
Thank you.

What does the 5 Plus do for him over the Pro?

Is there a better place to purchase these than Amazon? Looks like 5 Pro is $399 or 5 Plus is $599.
This post was edited on 9/28 at 6:50 am


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DJNOS1978
LSU Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Dec 2013
110 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
I bought the Ender 3 a few months back. At first I was impressed and overall it isn't too bad. But I will say lately that I have been having issues with the feeding inside the tube after every print. It is an easy fix but it does cause issues during long prints. The long term fix for this (supposedly) is upgrades to the system. Many people upgrade these types of printers and that is great for hobbyists. But folks who have no experience (teachers and the like) will need to understand that these are cheap kit 3d printers. You can learn a lot and get great results if you invest the time. But it isn't just a "plug and play" type of machine. I cannot speak regarding the Ender 5 but if it is the same issue then I would tell you just to go ahead and buy the Ender 5 either way. And just expect to learn a lot but there is a wide range of knowledge and community support.


Fat Batman
LSU Fan
Gotham City, NJ
Member since Oct 2019
553 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
Regular Ender 3 checking in. Go with either, it really doesn't matter. A few basic upgrades I would suggest ordering and having ready before you assemble are:
1. Real Capricorn tubing and fittings for the extruder and hot end. Order direct from Capricorn as there are many fakes on Amazon etc. Here is what you need, capricorn tube and fittings kit.
2. Aluminum extruder as the plastic one it comes with isn't rigid enough and will eventually break or wear away at the entry hole. This looks like the one I got, but there are a few different offerings out there Aluminum Extruder.
3. BLTouch is a must-have. It really turns the printer into something you can walk up to, select the file to print, and walk away. No hovering over the machine for 30 minutes leveling the bed and watching the first layer print while making adjustments. Make sure you get a legitimate BLTouch as there are imitations out there that people have a lot of issues with. This is also IMO the hardest upgrade since it involves editing and installing software onto the machine, which is not exactly a straightforward process if you have never done something like it before. There are some videos and writeups out there, but IIRC I was not able to find all the information I needed in one specific place. Maybe that has changed a little since I went through it. The juice is more than worth the squeeze to get this setup though. TeachingTech on youtube had all the info I needed I think in 3 different videos he did on the setting up the BLTouch. HERE is the kit that I got, but I did not use the USB dongle thing it comes with to flash the bootloader. I used an Arduino instead. The included mount worked on my Ender 3 and since the Ender 5 has the same hot end I'm assuming it will work on that as well, but I could be wrong.


CarRamrod
USA Fan
Spurbury, VT
Member since Dec 2006
51920 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
quote:

But I will say lately that I have been having issues with the feeding inside the tube after every print.
explain your problem, i can probably tell you the fix. I did every single fix known to mine before i found out what was actually causing the issue. It was mentioned in the comments of a youtube video. no other mention anywhere on the internet.


CarRamrod
USA Fan
Spurbury, VT
Member since Dec 2006
51920 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
i upgraded my hot hotend to the microswiss all metal. I thought the hot end fix with crap. I have the EZR truder that i havent installed yet because im printing so well right not. i font want to mess anything up.


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DJNOS1978
LSU Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Dec 2013
110 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
It starts to back feed at the extruder motor and causes the print to have less material come out.
The issue is the tube feeding into the metal tube. I’m not sure if it is retraction set too high but when I stop the print and pull out the tube you can see the deformed filament at the end of the tube. I’m used to having an extruder heater with a metal tube that has a pfte tube in it that doesn’t move. But this is on a direct drive extruder that doesn’t have the feed tube that goes inside the hot end tube.
I looked at that micro Swiss.


CarRamrod
USA Fan
Spurbury, VT
Member since Dec 2006
51920 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
quote:

It starts to back feed at the extruder motor and causes the print to have less material come out.
The issue is the tube feeding into the metal tube.
thats the most likely cause...... because this was my main issue as well. and after i did the hot end fix with no change, then a new all metal hot end with no change. I had the EZR truder on order when i found that post i was talking about. the tension strew on the extruder was too big. i loosened the screw all the way and it was still pushing to hard on the filiment. I ended up cutting a ring off the spring and i have been smooth sailing ever since. Still havent put the new extruder on. i was thinking about getting a cheap 3 just for flexables and useing the EZR, because my 5pro is printing soo well

This post was edited on 9/28 at 12:44 pm


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Fat Batman
LSU Fan
Gotham City, NJ
Member since Oct 2019
553 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
quote:

pull out the tube you can see the deformed filament at the end of the tube.


This is caused by the push connector fitting in the hot end having too much play in it. When the extruder extracts it is able to pull the tubing up a little due to the play, which allows the filament to get into they newly created gap and what you saw it the result. The fix is the Capricorn fittings I mentioned above which are better quality. You can also buy or print little clips that go between the plastic insert of the push connector and the metal base to remove the wiggle room. Here is an example of the clips you can print on Thingiverse: LINK
This post was edited on 9/28 at 1:53 pm


CarRamrod
USA Fan
Spurbury, VT
Member since Dec 2006
51920 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
quote:

This is caused by the push connector fitting in the hot end having too much play in it. When the extruder extracts it is able to pull the tubing up a little due to the play, which allows the filament to get into they newly created gap and what you saw it the result. The fix is the Capricorn fittings I mentioned above which are better quality. You can also buy or print little clips that go between the plastic insert of the push connector and the metal base to remove the wiggle room. Here is an example of the clips you can print on Thingiverse: LINK
like i just explained.... thats usually the reason... but my filament would crimp when i ran the printer and i had the hotend side of the tube out open to the air.....once the extruder crimped a certain length of tube it was enough friction to stall out the extruder motor and have it do that clicking.

whats funny is I tried to print some of the fixes when i had the issue but i had so much under extrusion i could print any pieces.
This post was edited on 9/28 at 2:21 pm


DJNOS1978
LSU Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Dec 2013
110 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
I'm going to try and use the threaded metal tubes that I used on my custom machines. I haven't tried it yet so I am not sure that the threads will match. I sure hope so because it has a PFTE liner in it that doesn't move. The filament feeding tube should stop at the top of the metal tube. But this is just my theory.


DJNOS1978
LSU Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Dec 2013
110 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
It appears that I have found a cheap, easy fix for this nozzle issue. I removed the standard metal tube in the hotend and replaced it with a threaded tube that has an internal PFTE tube already in it. The filament feeding tube does enter the extruder at the top but stops after it touches this new tube. The tube is about 3mm longer than the original one so it does change the Z height about 3mm. It also does not allow for the standard bolts to be used that connects the hot end to the heat sink. I am not using those bolts currently and I have no issues. I'll make a quick video and post some links on this fix.


Fat Batman
LSU Fan
Gotham City, NJ
Member since Oct 2019
553 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
Nice, I'm interested to see the video. I think I saw somewhere those bolts in the hot end are an artifact of assembly or something and not only not necessary, but recommended to be removed to help prevent heat from leaching.


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jambrous
LSU Fan
Member since Jun 2010
310 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
Im about to install a raspberry pi on my 5 pro as well. I might have questions for you soon lol.


DJNOS1978
LSU Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Dec 2013
110 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
I won’t be able to offer any tips on raspberry pi. I have been wanting to learn the system. These other guys may have some expertise on that.


CarRamrod
USA Fan
Spurbury, VT
Member since Dec 2006
51920 posts

re: The Official 3D Printing Thread
10/4 it is pretty simple. I followed all of teaching techs videos ad it was pretty self explanatory. Like i said the very first things i would do it get octoprint up and running with a bltouch.


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